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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2016 8:52 am 
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Sponge
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Posts: 95
So for the first time I'm getting a new new car. I've declined the dealerships 'exterior protection' knowing I could probs do a better job myself for much less cash...

The car is a mid-grey metallic Skoda Superb. I'm thinking that a synthetic glaze such as Carlack 68 NSC would give the paint the reflective, almost 'cold' finish I'd like to achieve. I currently use Bilt Hamber on my Leon and whilst the protection is quite good I find the finish a bit too warm and rich, I think it will be lost on the grey of the new car.

I take it the Carlack Long Life is the best product to use on top of the NSC? Are there any other glazes that I really should be considering?

Also what car shampoo doesn't contain any gloss enhancers? I'd like to get the cars paint as clean as possible before adding any protection.

My plan is to:

Snowfoam
Wash and dry
Iron fallout remover
Wash again
Clay (if needed)
Glaze
LSP

Sound OK?


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2016 12:06 pm 
Mid-grey metallic is a wonderful colour and certainly will be enhanced by NSC....given it's synthetic reflective qualities, to produce a highly reflective and durable coat. Whilst The Carlack Long life is chemically engineered to be applied over the top of NSC, in my opinion, it does add a little 'warmth' to the finish, but not as much as a wax would.

An alternative to the Long Life is FinishKare's P1000 paste sealant...available in sample sizes, which is a tied and tested combination.

I agree with you 100% about using a shampoo which has no gloss enhancers... just pure cleaning power. For this, look no further than Angelwax's shampoo..it does what it says, thorughly cleans, no added shine and is highly concentrated.


Your plan just could do with a couple of minor tweaks... to attain maximum cleaned paintwork, but won't add much additional time or cost to the process.

Snowfoam
Wash
RINSE
All PURPOSE CLEANER (APC) ....this will desolve any existing old waxes or coatings already on the paint.
RINSE
Iron Fallout remover
RINSE
DE-TAR
RINSE
clay bar
RINSE and DRY
glaze
Lsp


The small additional cost of the APC is well worth it....such a versatile product which can be used for multiple detailing tasks (especially wheel arches).


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2016 11:20 am 
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Sponge
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Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 9:01 am
Posts: 95
That's a great response Willington, thanks =D>

Good call on the Angel Wax, I didn't even consier that and the description seems to be just what I'm after.

A few follow up questions:

1. FK 1000P - it states hi temp so I take it that it's also suitable for application on alloys?
2. Is there any need to dry between application/rinse of fallout remover, APC and tar remover ?
3. Could I use my snow foam lance to apply the APC and tar remover? I have some BH Surfex that I think will achieve both these stages in one.

Thanks in advance


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2016 12:32 pm 
The FK 1000P is suitable to be used on exhaust systems, alloys and paintwork.

There is no need to dry between the various decontamination stages ...most of these are found on the lower sides and behind wheel arches on vertical panels. the water runs off.

Surfex is an APC, but won't really remove all of the tar spots. So best to use a deciated de-tar product.

You could use your snow foam lance to apply the Surfex....but you would be watering down the APC too much to be effective. You could also add some into the shampoo wash bucket for extra cleaning power. However, for a large car like yours, you will need about 1 litre of 5% surfex/95% water and is best applied by using a trigger bottle. Leave it to dwell for a couple of minutes and you will see discoloured suds start to slide off the panels...this is the old waxes/sealants disolving.

By performing these decontamination stages, when it comes to using the expensive clay, you will find that almost all the contaminants have been removed. Therefore your clay will stay pretty much clean and can be used again.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2016 12:36 pm 
PS. Tar remover shouldn't be applied using a snow foam lance. Most de-tar products come with their own chemical resistant trigger spray head. Powerful solvents could melt the bottle on the snow foam lance!


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2016 12:52 pm 
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Sponge
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Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 9:01 am
Posts: 95
Thanks again!

I think I'll get myself a small bottle of AS Tardis then. Not used it before but I expect it to be just a spray, leave 30-60 secs, agitate and a good rinse? Would a wash mitt/mf cloth be ok to agitate it with?

I see CYC offer a small 60ml tub of FK 1000P so that will be plenty. I have a 50ml tub of BH Finis Wax and that's not even half way through after 4-5 uses.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2016 1:30 pm 
an old, but clean MF cloth is great to use with a de-tar product. A you say, leave it to dwell for a short time and you will see the tar spots start to run. Then a wipe off and then a good thorough rinse.

I would advise you to use a nitrile glove when using any of the decontamination products as the cleansers/solvents are quite strong and can effect the skin.....I have one tar removing product which has to be kept in an uluminum bottle!


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2016 1:34 pm 
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Sponge
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Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 9:01 am
Posts: 95
Great stuff, thanks


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