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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:53 pm 
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Sponge

Joined: Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:35 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Durham
Hi, I have a new Carbon Grey (dark grey metallic) GTD arriving in a few weeks, and could do with some advice on how best to prep and protect the new paintwork please.

I have asked that the dealer leaves the shipping wraps on, and leaves this to me on collection. My plans are below, based on some products I already have, and the limited time I have. Please point me in right direction. I can borrow a good DA polisher off a friend, but wary of using it given I have no experience.

1. Remove wraps and wash car with Poorboy's Super Slick & Suds Shampoo, and lambswool mitt.
2. Dry car with large drying microfibre, and inspect before taking home...
3. At home, wash car again, and dry.
4. Cleanse car using either Swisswax Cleaner Fluid or Dodo Lime Prime, help? (I have both)
5. Apply Poorboys Black Hole. (I have this already).
6. Apply either Poorboys Liquid Natty's Blue or EX-P or EX Sealant. (I plan to buy one of these).

Thanks, any advice much appreciated, Mark.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 8:24 pm 
Fist up...welcome to the CYC forum.

I'm pleased that you have taken the sensible approach of detailing the car yourself, as opposed to letting the dealership just perform a quick valet.

Having said this, I would strongly advise you to let the Dealership remove the shipping wrapping and they inspect the paintwork before you see it. This will avoid any unpleasant surprises and potential denials.

Getting down to the nitty gritty:

You will need to decontaminate the paintwork fully before you apply any products.....Wash, de-tar, iron fallout remover and clay bar.

Then you will start to see the true extent of the state of the paintwork.

You have two different products in the swissvax and ddj lime prime. ...Swissvax is purely a cleaning product, whereas DDJ LP has cleaners, abrasive and fillers in it ( a hybrid product).

If you chose lime prime, then there is no need to use Blackhole as a glaze.

Ex-p sealant will adhere to Blackhole, my not necessarily adhere to Lime Prime...not chemically engineered to do this and from 2 different manufacturers. You will not have a problem applying a wax over blackhole, lime prime or a sealant.

Just a word of caution...you may well find that the paintwork, even on a new car is full of buffer trails and swirl marks. So always inspect the paintwork under a bright light source and from different angles. If there are imperfections, I suggest that you machine polish the panels using a firm pad and Scholl S30+ polish.

Your alternative is to get a respect pro detailer to perform a 'new car' detail (takes about a day) for you, and done at the Dealership - OR - there may be a forum member who lives in your area who is willing to lend you a helping hand and the advise you require....so consider putting your general location in your profile :)

Hope that this helps.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:03 pm 
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Sponge

Joined: Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:35 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Durham
Thank you for the quick and detailed response. So I'm going to inspect paintwork together with the dealer, they can remove wraps etc.

I'm a complete novice when it comes to detailing but I do very carefully look after my cars. Looks like I have some work ahead, I was hoping to find some medium ground between spending days on the car and say a day. But appreciate that good results mean not cutting corners!

Cheers


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 12:10 am 
Take a high powered LED torch with you to the Dealership...to inspect the imperfections on the paint. You will almost certainly see lots of factory inflicted Buffer trails. Usually, Dealerships mask the imperfections using products such as Diamondbrite or GuardX...and charge you £300 for a product which costs them less than a fiver and work done is about an hour!

You may get a discount or some freebies from the Dealership if you point them out.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 7:55 am 
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Sponge

Joined: Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:35 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Durham
Brilliant, thanks. Got a powerful LED torch, and taking this for sure. I'm guessing it's best to use this indoors. (Tried outdoors and not obvious depending on light, much better in I think).


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 8:25 pm 
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Sponge

Joined: Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:35 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Durham
Is IronX completely safe to use on a new car? Do I apply it with the paintwork bone dry (after washing it)? Do I need to wash it in with a sponge? How long do I leave it on for, and is it a simple spray hose off? Apologies for all the Qs, just want to get it right.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 4:49 pm 
Yes, it's perfectly safe to use on a new car. Best to wash the car first with a shampoo and rinse, then apply de-tar, rinse and apply Ironx then through rinse off again. No need to dry the car in between any of these processes. Final stage of decontamination (and Vital for a new car) is a clay treatment with plenty of lubricant. Through rinse off afterwards and then dry.

On a new car, you may well find a fair bit of overspray and the clay should remove this.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 8:35 pm 
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Sponge

Joined: Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:35 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Durham
Thanks a lot, will order some now. Should have car by weekend with a bit of luck!


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