CleanYourCar
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 8:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2016 2:58 pm
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So didn't bother with before and after pics as wasn't expecting much noticeable difference, however, where has clay been all my life! I can't emphasise enough the difference its made to my cream paintwork, so thanks everyone for introducing me to it! Followed the bilt hamber clay with autoglym super resin polish and finished with meguiars wax and am ridiculously happy with the results (also blacked the tyres! ) but, having seen the difference all this has made now makes me want to tackle the paint chips. Have I done this in the wrong order covered it with products first? Do I need to remove wax from chipped areas before filling chips? Any advice before I take on the chips? Thanks in advance for your time n patience, am very new to this but loving it! Oh, n if you think the products I've already used aren't really compatible, other combo would have worked better etc please let me know!

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 10:34 pm 
Chips can easily be corrected, provided you do them the right way.

One of the most important things when correcting paintchips, is to have a totally clean area in which to place the paint. That means, in your case, you will need to remove all traces of the SRP in the chip area.

To do this, you can either use Isopropyl alcohol or a 'panel wipe' tissue (panel wipes are available at Halfords). If the chip isn't thoroughly wiped clean, the paint won't adhere.

Mask off around the edges of the chip...this isolates the area to be painted and subsequently polished.

Shake the base colour and clearcoat well and then mix a small amount of each (50/50) on a clean piece of plastic. dip either a tooth pick into the mixed paint and drop a small blob into the chipped area ...or....using a fine artists paintbrush, build up thin layers of the paint. In both cases, you want the paint to be just proud (only a tiny bit) of the lips of the chip.

leave the paint to dry for 24 hours. After this time, you should use a 3000 grit wet n dry abrasive paper (very genntly and in a confined area inside the tape0 until the new paint is flat against the existing paintwork. You will notice that after the area is dry, the wet n dry will have created a dull patch...don't worry this is normal.

Then you will need to polish this area with an abrasive polish (not srp) to remove these mocro scratches. A polish like Gtechnik P1 on a german foam applicator will do the job well...firm side to sart with and then soft side to bring back the gloss.

Job done after you apply a little SRP and buff off.

If this all sounds a little daunting, please consider placing your general location in your profile...some kind Forum member may be able to pop over and help you.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 7:36 am 
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Sponge

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That doesn't sound too bad, thanks for clear instructions, I'll give it a go!

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 1:32 pm 
I should also have added...there is a chip repair system, called Chipex, which has everything inside the container which you will need to repair those chips....costs around £35.

What their instruction leaflet doesn't tell you is, that the paint supplied (matched to your specific car) has a primer and clearcoat already mixed into it and can be used on both metal and plastics.


http://www.chipex.co.uk/ra/?utm_expid=35337439-16.oweEKOZiQ3iqEPGTSC-Igg.1&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.chipex.com%2F


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 1:41 pm 
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Sponge

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Thanks for chipex info, I've come across lots of sites that say they can mix and send out my paint if I give them my colour code, am I gonna get a better colour match with chipex or are most pretty reliable? Thanks

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 2:34 pm 
I've not had any experience with other 'paint kit' providers..only Chipex or Paint Sticks made by the manufacturer of my car.

The chipex kit paint was a perfect match...even for a16 year old car!


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2016 11:23 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:08 pm
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Location: Abingdon-0n-Thames
These guys at paints4u make it up to your paint code. I've found them very good ! http://www.paints4u.com/productsByCat.a ... fAodMVBVCw

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 2:34 pm 
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Sponge

Joined: Fri Dec 06, 2013 3:11 pm
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Before you try a chipex kit or anything like that, get your chassis number and simply phone a dealer and see if they do a touch up paint. I paid £7 for a pot of black and separate clearcoat from VW for our Mk5 Golf and simply mixed a small amount of each together before applying with a tooth pick as someone else has mentioned.
The rest of willingtons advice is spot on too, wet sand at minimum 24 hours after you're happy you've filled in the chip and then polish down. Make sure your sandpaper is completely clean as any sort of debris on it can cause much more damage. Ensure you are sanding completely flat too. It's seriously hard work removing wet sanding scratches by hand, you're much better off using a machine. You'll need a finishing polish after probably too.
For my Golf I used Menz FG400 on a mf pad after the 2500 then 3000 grit, then refined with Rupes Diamond Gloss on a white Rupes pad.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 9:51 am 
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Most cars have the paint code on the front door pillar. :cool:

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