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PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 1:12 pm 
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Both SONAX and Aqartz Iron Cut share very similar chemical formulations

1. AQuartz Iron Cut - automotive paint is porous, by using an acid salt solution on the paint surface the micro-fissures (‘pores’) are expanded by an exothermic reaction. This releases ferrous particles and caustic compounds that have developed in the paint's subsurface; the reaction agitates and loosens the particles allowing them to be rinsed away. This is a one-step, highly effective vehicle paint decontamination, beyond what can be removed by washing or claying, with the cleaning power of an acid with a pH of 7.0, by using a neutralised acid salt

Neutralization is the reaction between an acid and a base (alkaline) producing a salt and neutralized base; common examples include acetic acid and sulphuric acid, it contains neutralised acid salt that effectively dissolve the sintered brake dust particles by forming a water soluble complex that can be rinsed away. Do not allow solution to dry on vehicle. The smell is similar to ammonium thioglycolate (its main chemical component) permanent wave lotion

Aquartz Iron Cut sprays on as a thick, transparent liquid, as the cleansing liquid begins to work into the ferrous iron particles the formula begins to turn purple/ red. The purple/red coloration is the acid salt forming a bond to the sintered iron on the car paint and wheel and changing its state to a water soluble complex for easy removal. Stubborn, baked on brake dust may take a small amount of agitation. Rinse car paint and wheels thoroughly with a power washer and wipe dry.

2. Sonax Wheel Cleaner full effect -Used for the removal of sintered (heat fused) metal particulates, this product has the cleaning power of sulphuric acid but with a pH of 7.0 by using a neutralised acid salt.

Neutralization is the reaction between an acid and a base (alkaline) producing a salt and neutralized base. Common examples include acetic acid and sulphuric acid, when mixed with water cause an exothermic chemical reaction, loosening the sintered ferrous metal particulates, which have been converted entirely to rust and disintegrates forming a miscible emulsion that can be rinsed away. The main chemical used is Thioglycolic acid, a simple sulphur group- chained carboxylic acid, is a clear liquid; that’s water soluble. The product starts off green, then red and then to blood red. Allow to dwell for a minute, agitate and rinse. MSDS - http://www.mobile-image.co.za/extreme_msds.pdf


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PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 2:14 pm 
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... similar to the "intelligent acid" in Dodo Juice Mellow Yellow?

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PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 10:31 pm 
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Are these products similar to those like Autoglym Fallout Remover?

http://www.qwikfast.co.uk/catalogue/pro ... ts_id=4957

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PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 10:55 pm 
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pjgh wrote:
... similar to the "intelligent acid" in Dodo Juice Mellow Yellow?

Im pretty sure youve used a Finish Kare 3 step product like this Paul? Anyway, ive inadvertantly took this off topic so i apologise. When are you going to be trying the other products Paul? Im liking the idea of the i1. I tried to con Claire into getting me some the other day by saying i would sort her Karen Millen suede sandals :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 9:29 am 
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Yeah, the three stage Finish Kare decontamination package? The difference with the Iron Cut is that it is a self-neutralising product!

I1 will take a bit of planning. I need to clean the roof first and have it dry - ideally, this is a one day job in hot sun. I need to clean and dry it in the sun, then get it out of the sun to apply the I1. Or, wash one day and with a second dry day apply I1 after a dust down, which will be dustier than you'd expect even after one day.

I'm keeping me eye on the weather.

I might get L1 applied to the convertible leather - it's well fed and supple, but lacks a shine. I hope the nano goodness in that product will both bond to the protective coat and make it shine.

Machine polishing the sides of two cars and applying C2 (and C3 to the lower bodykit) is the task for this week. Again, depending upon the weather ... and my white car has stuck brakes again :roll: Brand new calipers a month, or so, ago and very hot wheels ... most likely the handbrake cable needs fiddling with now the brakes are bedded in.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 10:09 am 
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Does the FK 3 stage kit eliminate the need for claying or speed up the process? I hate claying badly contaminated paint :(

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 10:15 am 
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Leicester Looney wrote:
Does the FK 3 stage kit eliminate the need for claying or speed up the process? I hate claying badly contaminated paint :(


Yes, it removes metallic dust and so on chemically. You get a strong acid as the first stage, a strong alkaline as the second (which neutralises) and then a strong shampoo as the third. Follow the instructions carefully. It's aimed at brand new cars that come off a transporter.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 10:38 am 
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Thanks for your reply. ISTR a valeting company which offers a fallout removal service and this is what they describe it as:

Quote:
Paintwork is not solid. If you look at it under a microscope you would see that it is full of holes like a sponge and as your paintwork corrodes, the oxidising compounds seep deeper into these holes. Also, as the paintwork erodes under the metal particles, they bury themselves deeper into the paintwork. This makes it difficult to remove as it cannot simply be washed off. As the oxidisation process requires water, washing you car will actually speed up the process.
One method of removal is an acid bath. The acid eats out all the fallout and corrosive compounds, the acid is then neutralised with alkaloid soap.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 8:02 am 
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I was impressed with Gtechniq on Ash's car last weekend, so ordered P1, C2 backing plate and pads. The 'Roc is nearly the same colour as the Peugeot so should look good. I like the idea of 'self cleaning' properties as my car does not get cleaned as much as I would like :oops:

I will report back at a later date.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 9:54 am 
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freon warrior wrote:
I was impressed with Gtechniq on Ash's car last weekend, so ordered P1, C2 backing plate and pads. The 'Roc is nearly the same colour as the Peugeot so should look good. I like the idea of 'self cleaning' properties as my car does not get cleaned as much as I would like :oops:

I will report back at a later date.


:cool: Good luck with it. I used the P1 this week on a Polo with my DAS-6 and have to say I very surprised how well it worked on German paint with a DA :!:

It's only short fall I found is the working time and drying out but a quick spray on the panel with distilled water fixes that.

I will post a small write up later today.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 11:24 am 
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Ash wrote:
It's only short fall I found is the working time and drying out but a quick spray on the panel with distilled water fixes that.


As far as I can tell, it's a kind of non-diminishing abrasive and similar to Meguiars SMAT technology, being nano in scale. I think ...

You work it for as long as the defects are there. It does not induce its own marring since the abrasives are minuscule - if it does, it's microscopic. You're right, Ash - a quick spritz (more like misting to avoid splatter) when it dries and carry on ...

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 11:37 am 
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pjgh wrote:
Ash wrote:
It's only short fall I found is the working time and drying out but a quick spray on the panel with distilled water fixes that.


As far as I can tell, it's a kind of non-diminishing abrasive and similar to Meguiars SMAT technology, being nano in scale. I think ...

You work it for as long as the defects are there. It does not induce its own marring since the abrasives are minuscule - if it does, it's microscopic. You're right, Ash - a quick spritz (more like misting to avoid splatter) when it dries and carry on ...


I'm very impressed with it :D. and it seems quicker and better than anything I've used with a DA :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 5:13 pm 
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P1 did an OK job here http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/vie ... hp?t=12057. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 9:57 pm 
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Hope PJGH does not mind me hijacking his thread but thought this was the best place to post my Gtechniq experience.

Had a go on the bonnet of the 'Roc this afternoon as the sun went in.

I washed, clayed, rinse, IPA wipeover.

The P1 was applied with the finishing pad at the lowest Milwaukee speed which is 900rpm. I covered 1/3 of the panel but it need spritzing with water after less than a minute. Blimey does this stuff ever dust up! it was everywhere. Still after a wipe over with a MF, which was a bit more difficult than I had anticipated, the finish was silky smooth.

On with the C2 with a MF pad and left to dry then buff, very easy.

Image

Image

A bit difficult to gauge the look in dull light, I will take a couple more tomorrow, as we are promised sun. Needs to be dry as I have a Boxter booked in for a protection detail.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 10:20 pm 
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I don't mind at all ... in fact, I've yet to have a "proper go" with P1 and C2 :oops: so your account is most welcome.

Did you use C2 neat? That's my plan ... and then use C2 diluted to maintain after each wash.

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