From: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/forum/vie ... php?t=7552
Well, that really got the hairs on the back of my neck prickling in case he was looking over my shoulder because even back then I was casually tinkering with blends. For about a year now I have been making up little amounts (usually when I'm feeling "happy" quite late at night
) to try to get something I would call stable - by stable, I mean not a rock of wax and not slush. Getting to that point is very easy ... and very difficult because once you get there, you're still left with a "wax" which isn't at all usable. Fine tuning and fine tinkering ... and the other night I got to a point that I had something stable, repeatable and usable
, albeit on my test plates which are metal but nevertheless show up how the wax works, how it dries, cures, removes and what residual beading is like.
No cars have been harmed in the making of this wax ... yet
That was a eureka
moment - I have a wax which is made up of carnauba wax, beeswax, paraffin wax, linseed oil and turpentine. The formulation is mine - I will not divulge it and, please forgive me, I will not give out secrets, formulas or advice by PM. I came to this point by following advice and guidelines I have found quite readily on the internet and perfected it to my liking by trial and error ... and Guinness
Last night was a leap of faith - I've made up small batches before, but I thought I'd go the whole hog and pretty much use up the gear I've got in one monster batch of around 300ml of product. There was a slight deviation from the formula last night, but it was worth it - the consistency was just right; almost like Swissvax, but not quite as dry.
So, where do I go from here?
Well, the trial on a real car was an eye opener - this is far from right as a usable wax, for automotive use
You'll see what in a minute, but it might not be as bad as it first appears.
The wax itself is good - it is "pure"-ish, but I would like that hit of sweet carnauba to come through much stronger and for that, I need to drop some of the solvent smell. I have a good hint that citrus oils are the way to go and will be trying that next, whenever I get some new gear in which will be after a good sweep of the market for other ingredients. A friend's girlfriend (in the formulation business) said to go for Turpenoid, rather than turpentine which will not have the same solventy smell, but I gather that can lead to a mushy texture - that's okay, I can balance that up in the wax and perhaps let it out with oil, for which I want to get away from linseed; citrus oil seems the right lead, but will overpower the scent I want to dominate. Some choices ... you can see why Dodo Juice made a small range. On that note I do want to look into candelilla wax. While an orange oil based wax and a candelillia content wax might seem like straightforward copying, let me cite Charles Colton: "Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery". Another "out there" consideration was for clove oil and albas oil since I have an awful cold at the moment. I also need to look into dyes.
For now, again, I have a stable formula. That formula will break as soon as I introduce a new ingredient and we begin a fresh round of batches trying to find the right formula for a number of permutations with new ingredients. My goal is for a "pure" wax along the lines of Supernatural ... I know ... aim high
If I get close, I might have access to some lab gear where cooling and consistency can be controlled - I'll have to see how that pans out. If I go down the line of using strong scented oils and solvents, well ... that might take me down another route for the next period, but I will always try to get back to this formula and perfect it by dropping out the unwanted scents and ingredients.
So, you want to see some pictures on real automotive paint, don't you?
Yes, it's the black car ... and yes, it's the boot panel
Washed at the weekend, it has a light dusting ...
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3922.jpg
... spritzed over with Serious Performance Quick Detailer (lubricious
) and wiped clean with a EuroW towel:
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3923.jpg
This is the "before".
Next, I polished the panel using ValetPro House Polish. I think this is just about to hit the market, so it's a little sneaky peek
I'm sure Greg won't mind, but if he does ... I'm in trouble
This polish initially appears to be a PDI glaze, but you quickly find it has a peculiar ability to massage away light defects like glints and even light swirl marks - the polish is very fine indeed, not at all scratchy and couldn't be heard working. Such a fine polish left me with a visibly clearer finish and one which had me looking twice to try to find the original defects
Nope ... gone ... magic, although a little dusty.
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3924.jpg
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3925.jpg
... after the polish:
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3926.jpg
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3927.jpg
At this point, I got so excited I forgot to take pictures ... I had applied the wax in circular motions and it went on very oily indeed. I guess this is the paraffin wax (hint) which helps the product not to flash cure and gives a really pleasant, leisurely work time. The downside is it takes an age to cure.
... and upon removal seemed to leave a rash which I was not overly happy with:
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3928.jpg
I'd not seen this in testing, but paint is somewhat different to metal. I am not overly concerned about this rash - it is annoying, since I really expected it to glide off effortlessly (what an optimist
), but it does need a two stage removal. Using a folded microfibre, go over the panel removing the worst of the cured product. This does come off easily enough, although I did wonder whether it had bonded well ... and then re-fold the microfibre and buff over from one side of the panel to the other so as to catch all the potential rash spots and keep them moving towards the other edge of the panel.
Good so far ...
... to get a glimpse of the product in action, I applied a second coat so that I could take pictures:
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3929.jpg
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3930.jpg
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3931.jpg
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3936.jpg
You want to see beading, don't you?
Spritzed down with clean tap water:
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3937.jpg
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3938.jpg
Long oblong beads from the water simply falling off with the lightest of touches:
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3939.jpg
Damn! What are those shadows?
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3942.jpg
Hmmm ... wipe off and start try again:
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3943.jpg
... nope, they're still there
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3944.jpg
Spritzed with chilled water and buffed like blazes, the issue can be made to go away.
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3949.jpg
http://www.pjgh.co.uk/gallery_albums/en ... CF3948.jpg
If the paint turned pink and covered in yellow spots overnight, I wouldn't be surprised
I have my suspicions as to what that spotting is about. I think I can remedy that in the next trial. I will keep this jar for prosperity as my first real prototype. I think I'd like to perfect this particular mix before moving on - at least I can draw a line under it as a solid version and then veer off into other avenues. I want to see how that treatment fairs after a contact wash - whether the beading continues, or whether that spotting returns. I'll certainly be watching you it goes over the next few weeks and when I get some fresh ingredients in, maybe the right conditions will prevail mid-summer for some further mad science
I think I have version 0.9 and with fresh ingredients could reach version 1.0 - I'll follow other avenues with 1.1.x and 1.2.x, but 1.0.x will always be the "pure" central avenue with leafy palm green on one side and orange trees on the other
'til then ...
Oh ... anyone else thinking of trying this, read up, scour the internet, cover your worktops with newspaper BEFORE mucking about with double boilers and get some Cillit Bang spray in ... and an apron
Beyond that, you're on your own ... sorry to be a spoil-sport, but I might actually be able to make something of this. I've gleaned all this from what I've found and from experimentation - if you're so inclined, you'll get there too. As I get further down the line and hopefully get towards something I might like others to try out, I may well drop a load more hints. At the moment, I'm going to keep my cards close to my chest - I trust you understand.